Determinate vs. Indeterminate

There are two classes of tomatoes based on their growing habit, Determinate and Indeterminate.

Determinate tomatoes include bush and patio varieties. These plants grow to a specific height and their tomatoes usually ripen within a short time making them useful for canning and sauces. Small tomato cages are required for support.

Indeterminate tomatoes are vining plants that grow until the first frost. Tomatoes are produced along the stems until the plant is done. They need a large, sturdy support of at least 4 to 5 feet.

Planting

Prepare the Site: Choose a spot with at least 6 hours of sun per day. Tomatoes need full sun for the best fruit production. Next, make sure the soil has enough calcium for general plant health and the prevention of blossom end rot by applying Hi-Yield Hydrated Lime 2 to 4 months before planting. At planting time, amend the soil with plenty of nutrient-rich, organic material such as manure or EB Stone Soil Booster.

Plant: Space plants 2 – 3 feet apart (depending on the variety) in rows 4 – 5 feet apart. To encourage a sturdy support, place the tomato seedling in the planting hole up to the first set of true leaves. If the plant is leggy, it can be laid on its side in a 3”-4” deep trench. Again filling the hole with soil up to the first true set of leaves. Roots will grow along the stems underground. Make sure to place tomato cages in the soil at planting. *Grafted tomatoes should be planted at the same level as in their pot.

Water: Tomatoes need consistent water. Inconsistent watering can cause leaf curl or blossom end rot. Water when the top 1 or 2 inches of soil is dry.

Fertilize: Feed every 6-8 weeks with E.B. Stone Organics Tomato & Vegetable Food to supply plants with needed nutrients and to stimulate fruit growth.

Protect: Until day and night temperatures are at least 55 degrees F, keep tomatoes in a greenhouse or gently cover with sheets, blankets, upside-down containers or an insulating product such as Harvest Guard.

Harvest: Ripe tomatoes should be firm, but yield to the touch. They should also break away from the plant easily. If you have to tug on them, they are not quite ready.

Container Planting: Plant determinate varieties in 5–10 gallon pots and indeterminate varieties in 10-15 gallon pots. Use a high-quality potting soil such as Edna’s Best Potting Soilor YnG Supreme Potting Mix. Make sure the container has good drainage. Plant the tomato up to the first set of true leaves. Make sure watering stays consistent as containers dry out quickly in the heat of summer.

Companion Plants

Companion planting involves growing certain plants near your vegetables that will benefit them in some way. Many companions are other vegetables that grow well together, while some are herbs and flowers that deter harmful insects and improve growth and flavor.

The following vegetables grow well with tomatoes:
Asparagus, Carrot, Celery, Cucumber, Onion, Parsley and Peppers

Tomato Allies:

• Basil repels flies and mosquitoes; improves growth and flavor.
• Bee balm, chives and mint improve health and flavor.
• Borage deters tomato worms, improves growth and flavor.
• Dill, until mature, improves growth and health. Once mature, it stunts tomato growth.
• Marigold deters nematodes.
• Calendula deters tomato worm and general garden pests.

Tomato Enemies:

• Corn and tomato are attacked by the same worm.
• Mature dill slows tomato growth.
• Kohlrabi stunts tomato growth.
• Potatoes and tomatoes are attacked by the same blight.

* This information was put together by Todd Weinmann of North Dakota State University Agriculture Extension. www.burpee.com/blog/article10888.html.

Troubleshooting

No flowers on plant – Can be caused by too little sun or water

Flowers but no fruit growing –

1. Too little sun or water
2. Temperatures may be too cold (lower than 55) or too hot (over 75 at night and over 90 at day)
3. No pollinators are in the area
4. Humidity may be too low. Humidity needs to be 40-70% for pollen to stick.

Dropping flowers – Day temperatures over 90 degrees F may be causing this. Protect plants from the hot sun with shade cloth.

Blossom End Rot – A dark, sunken spot on the bottom of tomato. Often caused by…

1. Calcium imbalance
2. Inconsistent watering
3. Too much nitrogen in the soil
4. Incorrect soil pH. Tomatoes need a pH of 6.2 – 6.8
5. High salt levels in the soil
6. Root damage

Cracking – Skin cracks when fruit growth is too rapid. This is usually caused by uneven watering and too much moisture from weather conditions.

Yellowing Leaves – Usually too much or too little water or the soil is low in nutrients.

Common Pests

Check your tomato plants daily for any signs of unwanted insects. Make sure to look at the soil, fruit and under the leaves. Following are some of the most common insects to watch out for.

Aphids – Small, flat, slightly ovate and green, white or black. They suck the sap from leaves causing distortion and leaf curl. Often, they will not kill the plant, but a severe infestation can cause stunted growth. Spray aphids away with the garden hose or insecticidal soap.

Tomato Horn Worm – A large, green caterpillar with a horn-like tail. It will begin feeding on the upper leaves and if left unchecked can completely defoliate a plant. They will leave dark green or black droppings. To get rid of them, hand pick them off plants with gloves and drop them into soapy water.

Spider Mites – Hard to see with the naked eye, spider mites suck the sap from the underside of leaves causing pale yellow marks on the top of the tomato leaf. Leaves eventually turn brown and fall off. Severe infestations can lead to extensive webbing over the plant. They can spread to other plants easily so monitor your other plants. Use insecticidal soap, horticultural oil or neem oil. At the end of the season destroy any plants that had spider mites.

Potato Flea Beetle – Bronze colored insect that flies and jumps. Deposits eggs in soil at base of plant. Larvae feed on the roots. As they mature, they come up and feed on foliage, stems and flowers. Dust leaves with talcum powder or use sticky traps. You can delay transplanting so the emerging adults will have nothing to feed on. Repel with catnip, sage, mint, hyssop, nasturtium and basil.

Diseases

Prevention is the most important way to deal with disease. Rotate crops every 3 years and avoid planting potatoes, peppers and eggplant where tomatoes were planted the prior year. Good ventilation and consistent watering are important. Destroy any infected plants.

Early Blight – A fungal disease that causes leaf drop. Look for dark brown/black spots on lower leaves and stems. Catch early and destroy diseased leaves. Use a copper-based fungicide to control. If blight takes hold, remove and destroy plant.

Late Blight – Fungus causing grey moldy spots on leaves and fruits which later turn brown. Damp conditions encourage blight. Once it takes hold, remove and destroy plant. Use a copper-based fungicide to control.

Mosaic Virus – Distorts and twists young leaves, mottle with yellow. This is difficult to control; remove and destroy the plant.

Powdery Mildew – A powdery, white fungus covering the leaves. Leaves can eventually turn yellow and fall off. Easy to manage without needing to destroy the plant. Spray plants with neem oil or water. While powdery mildew loves humidity, it dislikes rain and water.